Indian Food: Good and Bad

Good Indian food does not have to be expensive. In fact, last night I had a delicious snack of "Calcutta street food" for $2.50. Therefore, one of the great mysteries of New York is the existence of so many bad Indian restaurants.

As you know, my journal largely consists of raves; I don’t like to gratuitously bash an eatery. However, once in while an experience arises which is so awful that I feel compelled to write about it. Since I don’t like to dwell on the negative, I will end this review on a positive note with a glowing recommendation for Kati Roll Company.

Let me begin by explaining that 7th Avenue, the main drag in Park Slope, Brooklyn, is notorious for mediocre and expensive restaurants. A restaurant may open with lofty aspirations but will soon raise prices while reducing the quality of the food (Dizzy’s and Sotto Voce come to mind).

Therefore, I had hopes that Amin, the latest addition (or subtraction, depending on how one looks at it) to 7th Avenue would be at least mediocre. Even these modest hopes of mine were dashed. Mango lassi was sour as a pickle, while cucumber raita was as sugary as rice pudding. Mango chutney hadn't a hint of spice; it tasted like something you'd serve over pancakes, and saag paneer was a puddle of green baby food almost devoid of chunks of cheese. Papadum were ordered but did not arrive (maybe I should be thankful). Also, there were about 10 waiters who could not organize themselves; service was extremely slow even though the restaurant was only half full. After such an unappetizing meal, it seemed unfair to me that Amin charged extra for rice, raita and chutney.

For less than the price of the condiments at Amin, you can satisfy your taste buds at the Kati Roll Company. Kati serves cheap and delicious Calcutta snacks, mostly paratha (thin Indian pancakes) filled with tasty, exotic fillings. My $2.50 unda sandwich was a fresh, piping hot paratha, bursting at the seams with red onion, egg, cilantro sauce and spices. It only lasted until I got to Houston Street. (I would have gone back for another but my friends and I were very tired from laughing while watching Darrell Hammond at the Comedy Cellar, and besides, one of us needed to order some chestnut gelato at Caffé Dante.)

Kati Roll Company: 99 MacDougal St. (212) 420-6517.